Summary: Changes mid 14th Century
Key dates:
In the mid 14th century changes were introduced in men’s clothing. They now wore hose and a close fitting, knee length garment called a gipon, later replaced by a doublet. Around 1375 an overgarment, called a hoppelande, became fashionable. This was made of heavy wool in varying lengths with a high standing collar. The sleeves were funnel shaped, widening from the shoulders so that it was possible for one end of the cuff to trail the ground. These were always colourful and there is evidence of these garments in violet, russet, blue, red and black.
In the 15th century the Anglo-Normans developed a female version of the hoppelelande. This was worn over the kirtle and usually had a V neckline, a long front opening with edges trimmed with broad flat collars and revers which ran down the front and ended in a U shape over the stomach. The opening was probably laced. This garment was made of heavy wool with a full skirt and sleeves.
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